Eterna Caliber 625: A Vintage Workhorse for Enthusiasts
The Eterna Caliber 625 stands as a testament to mid-20th-century Swiss engineering, cherished by vintage watch collectors and hobbyist watchmakers for its reliability and straightforward servicing. Produced primarily in the 1950s and 1960s, this manual-wind movement powered countless dress watches from Eterna and private-label brands, offering robust performance without the complexity of automatics.
Historical Context
Emerged during Eterna’s post-war expansion, bridging their innovative Eterna-matic automatics and traditional time-only calibers.
Featured in slim dress watches, emphasizing elegance and precision for everyday wear.
Known among restorers for abundant spare parts availability, including pinions, stems, and mainsprings from specialty suppliers.
Technical Specifications
Type: Manual wind, time-only (hours, minutes, center seconds).
Dimensions: 11.75 lignes (26.4 mm diameter), approximately 4.5 mm height.
Jewels: 17 (primarily functional in key pivots).
Frequency: 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz), with Glucydur balance and Nivarox hairspring.
Power reserve: Around 40-45 hours via Eterniflex mainspring.
Shock protection: Eterna-U system for resilience against daily knocks.
Beat rate adjustment: Free-sprung balance with fine regulation pins.
Winding: Smooth bidirectional crown winding via reduction gears.
Servicing Insights for Hobbyists
Disassembly reveals clean perlage finishing on bridges, with minimal markings for easy identification (stamped “625” under balance).
Common wear points: Palladium balance staff and pallet fork—replace with friction-fit jewels if needed.
Lubrication: Moebius 9010 on pivots, 941 on pallet stones; regulate to -10/+15 sec/day positional variance.
Upgrades: Some owners add modern synthetic oils for longevity in humid climates.
Collector Appeal
Values rise for original dials and cases; movements in pristine condition fetch premiums.
Ideal starter project: Affordable, with online exploded diagrams aiding first-time overhauls.
Pairs well with 1950s Eterna KonTiki variants for historical depth.
For any Watch Spare Parts inquiry, Email us for rate and availability: [email protected]
Watch Parts Enquiry
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Stem, Crown, Hands & Spares might be available for this movement.
Email us for rate and availability: [email protected]
Mobile/WhatsApp: +91- 9841 360 340