The Eterna Calibre 1431 is a classic Swiss manual‑wind movement aimed at elegant dress watches from the 1960s–70s, and it’s a solid choice for vintage collectors and hobbyist watchmakers who appreciate simplicity and reliability.
Why Enthusiasts Like It
It’s a straightforward, no‑date manual movement, making servicing and adjustment easier than complicated automatics with day‑date or complications.
The movement is built on a proven ETA base (Cal. 2430/2434), so many parts (like the mainspring, escape wheel, and some train wheels) can be sourced via ETA or Swiss spare‑parts suppliers.
Calibre 1431 U‑marked variants are especially collectible, often found in Eterna’s 18k gold dress watches with high‑quality finishing.
Practical Points for Hobbyists
The movement is compact, so it’s often used in slim cases with small diameters, making case work and dial fitting a bit more delicate.
As a 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz) movement, it’s a bit slower than modern high‑beat calibres, but it’s less sensitive to shocks and runs very stably once set.
The wheel train is simple and well‑spaced, so gear meshing and end‑shake measurements are relatively straightforward for a beginner or intermediate watchmaker.
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Stem, Crown, Hands & Spares might be available for this movement.
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